Recent Posts

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Q & A / Re: Original Model T questions.
« Last post by RacerX on Today at 08:19:58 am »
Hi _peter, Thanks for confirming it is stock. In the 80’s I bought a kit to modify my guitar for “killer tone” from the back of a guitar magazine. It consisted of some resistors, capacitors and other things that we’re to be soldered between the pots, pick-ups and switch. When it was completed it sort of looked like the inside of this amp. It just had this homemade look with electical parts soldered in places and that is what the inside of this Model T reminded me of.
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Q & A / Re: Inexpensive speaker repair suggestion.
« Last post by eddiemac on Today at 06:54:41 am »
I would try a light application of epoxy glue, to the crack only  - just enough so it stays solidly together.
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Q & A / Re: Original Model T questions.
« Last post by _peter on Today at 03:56:40 am »
Hi,

it's a first generation and it looks stock. Why do you think it has been modified?

Best,
Peter
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Q & A / Re: Inexpensive speaker repair suggestion.
« Last post by RacerX on Yesterday at 07:58:17 pm »
Sorry, pictures from iPhone load as incompatible.
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Q & A / Inexpensive speaker repair suggestion.
« Last post by RacerX on Yesterday at 07:54:33 pm »
Hello,  I have a Sunn Beta 402 that I have let set for a long time. I went to use it and noticed all four speakers have identical cracks. Only one crack per speaker, and all are the same. I was pressing on the cone to get the separation seen in the picture. The material actually closes up tight without any pressure on it. I need inexpensive repair so someone can use it long enough to try my amp or I can make a short video to demastrate it. I understand it would be best to replace or recone them but it looks like the value of a Beta 402 would only be worth what it would cost to properly repair it, or even less with shipping’s . I was thinking of using some fingernail polish or latex caulking?  I also read in a post where a guy said to lightly spray the cones with lacquer to refresh them. So I was wondering if maybe there is a material like felt, I could embed in the crack and use some lacquer as an adhesive. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
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Q & A / Re: Sunn Sorado Coupling Caps
« Last post by Soundmasterg on May 20, 2018, 11:35:32 am »
Its a subtle thing, but the effect is clearly there. Its up to taste...use whichever one you like better.

Greg
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Q & A / Re: Cone Excursion
« Last post by Ryan Phelps on May 20, 2018, 08:09:40 am »
Yes, it's an electrolytic. It's common practice to replace cathode caps when re-capping an amp. Electrolytics have a limited life-span and this cathode cap is pretty inexpensive, so I would replace it.
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Q & A / Re: Cone Excursion
« Last post by eddiemac on May 19, 2018, 10:15:29 am »
I replaced the green .0022uF coupling cap with a new Sozo mustard cap of the same listed value.  My Fluke meter reads 3nF on the old cap and 2nF on the new.  I notice an improvement with regard to speaker bass handling now, I think.

Question:  Is that 250uF cathode bypass cap an electrolytic?  It seems to be working fine, but will it need to be replaced some time in the future? 
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Q & A / Re: Sunn Sorado Coupling Caps
« Last post by eddiemac on May 19, 2018, 09:54:22 am »
Well, I've got to agree that the .1uF caps yield a slightly tighter bass sound (more punch, clarity?).  I tried the .25uF original value at a gig and, two weeks later at the same venue, the .1uF. 
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Q & A / Re: Original Model T questions.
« Last post by RacerX on May 19, 2018, 09:37:27 am »
Thanks Isaac! I will print it out and compare it to my amp.  I would assume mine is a 1G since it was made in 1974. This is a picture of my amp in case anyone is familiar with the Model T and can tell if it is stock or has been modified just by looking at it.
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