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31
Wow !

Many great suggestions, thanks guys !   

I've got to look into those SDS boards.
32
Good recommendations from Issac, EdBass and Soundmasterg ....I agree.

There was a recent thread on this site regarding a replacement grill cloth for the 1st style cloth.......

http://sunnforum.ampage.org/index.php/topic,10318.0.html

Wendell still makes the 2nd style grill cloth (at least very close) DF7005 .....it's a 5 yard minimum order. Some guys will use Fender blackface-era cloth turned 90 degrees (with the rectangular pattern running vertically)......it's kind of close.

Sunn badges show up on eBay occasionally. Also watch Reverb.com and this site.

Rogan made the Sunn knobs, numbered 0 - 10. Many guys will substitute a black Fender knob (numbered 1 - 10), lots of guys won't notice except for die-hard Sunn collectors. Many years ago, a forum member had Rogan make a bunch of Sunn knobs and some of us scooped them up for restoration work. Last fall someone did this again and they were offered on eBay and Reverb. Also note that recently someone was offering a similar knob, advertised for Sunn and Musicman amps. In fact, while correct for Musicman amps, they were not correct for Sunn amps. The typeface had a "square-shouldered" look where the Sunn knobs did not.
33
Thanks Greg, very much appreciated.

For the most part this amp is going to be a home closet queen.

I've had is since 1379 and its very clean, the only dumb things I did was painting the grill cloth, putting an off on switch on the front panel for the tremolo, and attempting a pilot light to indicate that - FAIL !

All this I did when I was in my 20's back then, so its pretty immaculate other than that.

So the multi cap vs discreet component would be a no brainier if I was using this thing often, as it is, I'm more of a Deluxe Reverb / Marshall Plexi kind of guy and knowing that a Sunn is ultra clean, makes it a great amp to have, but limited in my use of it, so am hoping to get away with multi cap appearance as well as functionality, even though I know its not optimum.

That being said, it would be sweet if someone would make a nice little breadboard / PCB with the proper caps on it, much like old Fender filter caps under the Dog  House, and it would "Bolt right up". tucked inside and clean.

Would there be enough demand for it you think?

You're welcome!

Home closet queen or not, the problem is that when your amp was built the wall voltages were 110VAC - 115VAC, but nowadays they are 120VAC - 125VAC. Inside the amp this results in a B+ DC voltage that exceeds the rating of that can cap you are planning on using. In other words, the voltage values on the schematic are no longer what the DC voltages inside the amp are today.....they are much higher in the amp. In short, that cap will work for awhile but since it is over voltage, it will fail prematurely. Using discrete caps inside the chassis with terminal strips will solve this as the caps can be wired in series which gives you half the capacitance but twice the voltage. If the cap values are appropriately chosen then you can get the same performance and tone as what the amp originally had, but you get a voltage rating on the series connected caps that will be adequate no matter what the wall voltage is. The original can cap can be left in place, but electrically it is disconnected, so the amp looks the same from the outside.

The other option, and perhaps the best one for you since it is easiest, is instead of discrete caps, go with the choices that EdBass mentioned. As long as the voltage rating of the caps used is going to be higher than what the actual voltage that point in the circuit sees, it doesn't matter where you get the caps as long as they function appropriately. Those options he mentioned meet those needs well.

Greg
34
I've used an SDS board in a 2000S for a decade or so, works like a charm and sounds great. Plenty of real estate to work with in the 2000S chassis, and a big improvement in bottom end tightness and overall headroom.

http://www.triodeelectronics.com/sdslabmk3cap1.html



and this KTL13 from Authenticap in a 40 watt split chassis Sunn and also in a 200S/K140 loaded Sonic I-40 rig that I've been gigging pretty much exclusively for the past year+.

https://www.die-wuestens.de/dindex.htm?/k8.htm



The KTL13 works great, is a drop in for the original 525V Sprague and is rated at 550+V so it's less of a concern for the modern wall voltages that Soundmasterg mentions. The band I'm in gigs fairly regularly; this is the 1rst no gig weekend I've had since late May and we are back at it again through Sept. starting 8/26.
Wearing this old man out, but my 49 yr old Sunn takes it in stride.
The Authenticap seems to be a no fuss, no mod answer, and based on your post, pretty much what you are looking for.


36
Thanks Greg, very much appreciated.

For the most part this amp is going to be a home closet queen.

I've had is since 1379 and its very clean, the only dumb things I did was painting the grill cloth, putting an off on switch on the front panel for the tremolo, and attempting a pilot light to indicate that - FAIL !

All this I did when I was in my 20's back then, so its pretty immaculate other than that.

So the multi cap vs discreet component would be a no brainier if I was using this thing often, as it is, I'm more of a Deluxe Reverb / Marshall Plexi kind of guy and knowing that a Sunn is ultra clean, makes it a great amp to have, but limited in my use of it, so am hoping to get away with multi cap appearance as well as functionality, even though I know its not optimum.

That being said, it would be sweet if someone would make a nice little breadboard / PCB with the proper caps on it, much like old Fender filter caps under the Dog  House, and it would "Bolt right up". tucked inside and clean.

Would there be enough demand for it you think?

 
37
Q & A / Re: Sunn Sentura II Lighted Power Switch Wiring
« Last post by Stratmanx on August 18, 2017, 05:56:10 pm »
Hi folks,

I'm in the same boat and just wanted to clarify and make sure I'm on the right track.

Going by Jim J's pictures I've labeled the lugs on the power switch 1, 2, and 3.

So going by Basshogs suggestion, all I should have to do is come off of the neutral (White wire) that goes to one side of the primary after the re-wire as described above and connect that to the # 3 lug I've labeled ?


Thanks guys !

http://fenderforum.com/userphotos/index.html?recid=83423


38
The multi-cap can isn't the best choice for your amp. It is often over-voltage with the higher voltage supply these days. Antique Electronics has also had some quality issues in the past with those style of caps. They manufacture those themselves through a subsidiary. Those caps are also expensive compared to using discrete caps inside the chassis with some terminal strips.

I don't know anywhere that you can get the knobs. The grille cloth for the later Sunn stuff is similar enough that the Fender stuff can be used. The earlier Sunn stuff is gone, though the stuff Traynor is using is close. Check out the grille cloth thread for more info.

Greg
39
Looks like Wendell DF7005 will do the grill cloth, but don't need as much as their minimum order is, just enough for the grill.

Wondering if they sell smaller cut off pieces ?
40
Q & A / Re: Grill Cloth From Wendell
« Last post by Stratmanx on August 18, 2017, 03:26:16 pm »
Looks like a reasonable substitute for my '68 Sentura I, but its sure hard to justify the price minimum size when all I need is enough to cover the grill panel of the front of the amp.

Dumb-O me decided to paint it black back in the day..

So you suppose he might sell smaller cut off pieces in that size ?
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