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1
Q & A / Re: Newer 215 bass cabs vs Older
« Last post by Isaac on Yesterday at 08:24:15 am »
The Model 215 doesn't have a "horn." It has a slot port across the bottom of the cabinet. The 200S and similar cabinets didn't really have a horn, either, although that's what Sunn called it. For one thing, the flare is the wrong direction for it to function as a horn. The later 215S and similar cabinets did have a horn flare on the port, but the resulting horn is too short and too small to function as a horn in the frequencies in which the port is active, so it and the 200S ports function pretty much as slot ports, too.
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Q & A / Re: Newer 215 bass cabs vs Older
« Last post by GrannyGremlin on June 21, 2018, 02:12:01 pm »
I think most of the "magic" in the older Sunn cabs was in the JBL D140 drivers they many came with. I don't have experience with the later Fender/Sunn cabs, however the advances in transducer technology over the years would indicate that they are probably fine, just don't pay "vintage Sunn" dollars. Current light weight neodymium cabs have driven run of the mill big cab prices way down.
What are you driving the cab with?

Dissagree (though that is the common thinking on the matter).

IMHO the magic if the cab itself - a reflex horn - Sunn (Mr Soundholm himself) pretty much invented those (story is the idea came to him in a dream), and they are not a common cab type.  They sound just as good with EVs in them for example.  Similar cabs were made by Musicman (there is a relativly large and dedicated 115RH fanbase on most bass forums; myself included), EV, and Garnet (but they're rare and if you find one you better let me at it first before you extradite it from it's native land you dirty bastards).  Probably a few others.

Sunn made 1x15 versions as well.  Both 1 and 2x15 came in 24" wide vs 30" wide versions (to match the 60 and 120 watt heads respectively); not sure if there is a sound fdifference but the 2x15 is easier found in 30" and the 1x15 in 24.  Later era (80s) also had some reflex horns but in addition to the change in aesthetics (easy to spot a 70s vs later one) they changed the orientation/placement of the ports to along 1 side vs in the middle, but same operating principle. They are just as good and probably slightly more rugged (metal grill vs cloth etc), also cheaper, but used cheaper drive units (IIRC, Cerwin Vega if you're lucky, otherwise rebranded Eminences). Watch out because then they also started making simple bass reflex ('ported' ) cabs - if you see a round port tube, not those.

Of the lot the MM 115RH is probably the easiest to find and cheapest (factory loaded with Eminences which suck, with optional EV upgrade which thankfully many people had the sense to take advantage of).  Sunns can be common in some parts of the States as well, especially the W coast, but usually fetch higher prices due to being en vogue with the doom folks.

There's also schematics on this site if you're handy enough to build one.

I have a Sunn Model 215 cabinet. I replaced the original drivers with JBL 2205B drivers, which are essentially K140s without the aluminum dome. It sounds very good. I think the cabinet is tuned to a higher frequency than is ideal for the JBLs, but maybe it's a good tuning for the original drivers.

Yes, the 2205B has a resonant frequency about 20Hz lower than the original D130s. Try adding stuffing to lower the tuning.  You can also enlarge the horn throat (the smaller end), but that's not reversable, so probably not the best idea.... or try some EV 15Ls in there; JBLs are not worth the current going prices IMHO.

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Q & A / Re: Newer 215 bass cabs vs Older
« Last post by VoltaTerminal on June 18, 2018, 09:49:29 am »
I think most of the "magic" in the older Sunn cabs was in the JBL D140 drivers they many came with. I don't have experience with the later Fender/Sunn cabs, however the advances in transducer technology over the years would indicate that they are probably fine, just don't pay "vintage Sunn" dollars. Current light weight neodymium cabs have driven run of the mill big cab prices way down.
What are you driving the cab with?

I'm expecting to get a GK 800RB. My current head is an Acoustic 140 whose transformer just gave out. I just purchased the Sunn 215 off reverb for super cheap so I'm hoping that if I want to replace the drivers I can without breaking the bank.
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Q & A / Re: Newer 215 bass cabs vs Older
« Last post by Isaac on June 18, 2018, 08:18:38 am »
I have a Sunn Model 215 cabinet. I replaced the original drivers with JBL 2205B drivers, which are essentially K140s without the aluminum dome. It sounds very good. I think the cabinet is tuned to a higher frequency than is ideal for the JBLs, but maybe it's a good tuning for the original drivers.
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Q & A / Re: Newer 215 bass cabs vs Older
« Last post by EdBass on June 18, 2018, 06:36:37 am »
I think most of the "magic" in the older Sunn cabs was in the JBL D140 drivers they many came with. I don't have experience with the later Fender/Sunn cabs, however the advances in transducer technology over the years would indicate that they are probably fine, just don't pay "vintage Sunn" dollars. Current light weight neodymium cabs have driven run of the mill big cab prices way down.
What are you driving the cab with?
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Q & A / Newer 215 bass cabs vs Older
« Last post by VoltaTerminal on June 17, 2018, 01:10:51 pm »
I recently played through a really great sounding Sunn 215 at a show and I love the sound I got out of it. I didn't get much information from the owner other than that it's a model from the 70's. I'm in the market for a cab anyway and the 2x15 seems like the way to go. I've found a few for sale online but they are the fender made models. I know that the post fender heads don't get much love but does this apply to the cabs as well? Assuming these cabs have the stock drivers in them are they worth acquiring?
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Classified / Re: 10 NOS rogan knobs for early sunn amps - pointer style
« Last post by madaradio on June 10, 2018, 06:54:00 am »
Sold. Thanks everyone.
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Q & A / Re: Original Model T questions.
« Last post by _peter on May 24, 2018, 01:36:48 am »
Don't worry, that's just the way they build amps back in the days.
I can't make out any component in the picture that has been touched.
Maybe, after all these years, the amp might need a cap job.

Peter
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Q & A / 76 Red Knob Concert Lead Output Transistors
« Last post by bigmufffuzzwizz on May 23, 2018, 09:00:33 pm »
Iíve got a red concert lead on my bench.  Iíve come to the conclusion from testing that Q3  is bad (reading voltage from collector to emitter). This unit has 22-3155 7613 transistors (not available) instead of the still available 2n3055 listed on the scheme. Are these interchangeable? Considering the scheme should I replace all 5 Qís with 2n3055 like the original scheme? Can I just replace one or need they be changed in pairs similar to tubes?
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Q & A / Re: Inexpensive speaker repair suggestion.
« Last post by GrannyGremlin on May 23, 2018, 12:03:25 pm »
Nice clean tear - easy to fix.

Don't use epoxy - too heavy.  Rubber/contact cement only if it's a poly cone vs paper.  For a paper cone like this one use regular white/school glue.  Water it down a bit so it doesn't go on thicker than necessary, dries slower, and paints on with a brush easier (though sometimes I just finger it on).  Alternatives include Wood Glue and  Modge Podge (in both cases def water down) - both being water based as well and very similar.

Paper towel is a bit thick - I use toilet paper (if thick/multiply, use a single ply).  Layer of glue on both front and back, line up the tear, stick on TP patch on rear only ( don't want to see that from the front), and then paint over the patch with another layer of glue (watering it down as mentioned also helps is not rip the TP when you top coat). Optionally another coat on the front as well if you're worried it's not strong enough.  Be conservative with the glue - you can always add another coat later.

Basically you don't want to add significant weight in an unbalanced way. That can be bad.  Adding weight in a balanced way (e.g. paint the entire cone with watered down glue/mod podge) is a common mod in DIY HiFi circles for cheap drive units when you want to lower the resonance/bass response and don't mind risking the loss of a bit of high end (cuz there's a tweeter for that anyway).  I've repaired many a low power vintage alnico this way (reconing is not worth it - costs more than replacing the speaker).  After a few you even learn to make them not so damn ugly.

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