I chose to layout out my 3 switches and 3 LEDs from left to right as follows:
REVERB CHANNEL SELECT BOTH
you can lay yours out however you'd like, just remember to wire it to the correct points on the PCB
on my enclosure, I chose to mount the LEDS at the halfway point on the top (about 1.5" from the edge). My channel select LEDs (red and green) are in the center of the enclosure, so I marked the halfway point lengthwise and positioned them about .5" APART. I positioned the "both" yellow LED 3/4" from the right edge.
For the switches, I measured 3/4" from the lower edge of the top of the enclosure, and marked one point in the center lengthwise for the middle switch, and 3/4" in from left and right for the other 2 switches.
Mark your drilling positions and drill a small pilot hole centered on each point with a small drill bit. Measure your switches and LED mounting clips, and drill your holes in the enclosure to the appropriate step on your Unibit drill bit.
Measure the width of the push-in clip that will hold the cable tight coming into the back of the enclosure, and drill a centered hole 3/4" from the bottom in the back of the enclosure.
Drill a 1/8" hole in the back of the enclosure, halfway up from the bottom and 3/4" from the left or right edge. You will want this to be on the same side (left or right) that your reverb switch will be, since there is not an LED getting in the way. You will use this hole to mount your terminal strip to with your 1/8" machine screw and nut. RUNNING THE CABLE INTO THE ENCLOSURE
Taking one end of your cable, strip about 2" of the outer rubber coating off. Using your wire snips, cut and peel away the shielding as well. Strip enough of the coating from the ends of each of the 3 conductor wires so you can make connections inside the box. Go ahead and run the cable through the mounting clip to where the rubber outer coating starts, and push the clip into the hole in the back of the enclosure to secure it tightly. Make your decision now and write down what color conductor from your cable corresponds to each part of the circuit. Write these down and make sure that they match up to the numbers shown in the schematic, and how you solder the connector to the other end of the cable later.MOUNT LEDs & SWITCHES
Push in your LED mounting clips. Go ahead and attach some wire to each leg of the LED (keep track of positive/negative). I like to snip my LED legs short, wrap wires and solder, then slip some heat shrink tubing over the connection to keep it from touching other wires. Pop in your LEDS into the appropriate positions.
Mount your 3 SPST switches in the box.PCB ASSEMBLY
Solder a bare copper wire across the top of the PCB. This will be your common ground point. You can also run all your ground wires directly to the terminal strip if you wish.
Solder the resistors and diodes onto the PCB so that they correspond to the placement as shown in the schematic. Double check to make sure you are orienting your positives/negatives correctly.
Solder the appropriate wires from the LEDS and switches to the correct places on the PCB.
Wire the ground from the PCB (or all ground points as separate leads) to the terminal strip. Make sure the terminal strip has a connection between where the ground wire(s) attaches and the mounting terminal that touches the inside metal of the enclosure. You may need to solder a small wire between these two points. Mount the terminal strip to the inside of the enclosure.
Before you close the lid, make sure that you orient the PCB so that its connections do not touch any exposed wire or the metal of the inside of the enclosure itself. I used a rubber adhesive foot as a standoff.CLOSE IT UP
Close the enclosure and tighten the screws. Attach the rubber adhesive feet. I used larger feet in the rear to tilt the box, making it a little easier to punch the switches.ATTACHING THE CONNECTOR TO THE CABLE (CB TYPE 4-PIN CONNECTOR)
on the other end of the cable, strip a little less than an inch of the outer coating and shielding, and expose enough of each conductor to make solder points inside the connector.
Disassemble the connector, and slide the main body of the connector a few inches down the body of the cable for now. Check to make sure that when the screws on the connector's collar are tightened, that it will be a tight fit on the cable. I had to use some heat shrink tubing around the end of my cable to make a good fit.
Solder each conductor to the appropriate numbered pin terminal on the detached connector head. This is a bit tricky, as both the wire and pin terminals are very small. Once your connections are soldered, reinsert the connector head into the connector body, and replace the screw that holds it together. Tighten the collar screws so that the connector is firmly attached to the cable. If not, you risk ripping the leads from the pin terminals when you pull on the cable.ATTACHING THE CONNECTOR TO THE CABLE (ORIGINAL PLASTIC CONNECTOR TYPE)
slide the cable clamp onto the cable
solder your 4 wires into the socket type connection pins
insert these sockets through the back of the plastic connector housing, into the appropriate numbered holes.
Attach cable clamp to connector housing.congratulations! your footswitch is finished. Now to the hard part.